Skincare Ingredients Explain!

When it comes to skincare, the market is saturated with products, not to mention with buzzword ingredients, that can really confuse and bamboozle! There's a lot of scientific jargon out there...how's a girl to know her AHAs from her BHAs?! Or her salicylic acid from her squalane? And do we actually need to be using all of these ingredients?

Well, as always, we're here to help and to take the stress out of your skincare routine. Here are our Verymakeupmad definitions and explanations of some of the most common (and often misunderstood) ingredients used in skincare - and the ones that we regularly recommend to our clients.

AHA’s: Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as citric acid, lactic acid and most notably, glycolic acid, work to chemically exfoliate the skin, as they gently dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells. They don't penetrate deep below the surface of the skin, but AHA products will brighten your complexion, repair ageing skin, fade sun spots, work on breakouts and improve the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Always use an SPF when using acids. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: REN Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic.

BAKUCHIOL: This plant-derived ingredient has its roots in Chinese medicine. It's been proven to help in decreasing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, minimize the signs of hyperpigmentation, whilst refining skin texture and restoring firmness. If your skin is irritated by retinol, then go for bakuchiol instead. It's most effective when paired with hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and squalane. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: GOW Super Bakuchiol Serum.

BHA’s: There's actually only one BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), and it's more commonly known as salicylic acid. Unlike its AHA cousins, this acid can penetrate further into the skin, and works to reduce oiliness and excess sebum production...making it a great ingredient for spot/acne prone skin! Plus, it's less irritating than AHAs, if you suffer from sensitivity. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: La Roche Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrate Serum

CERAMIDES: These are lipids that hold skin cells together, forming the skin's protective barrier and helping skin to retain moisture. They're an important ingredient in helping your skin to look and feel its best and defending it against pollution and UV rays. If you have dry, rough, irritated or eczema prone skin, ceramides will quickly become your best friends. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Nip+Fab Ceramide Fix Overnight Repair Cream

HUMECTANTS: Humectants act to attract and retain moisture, keeping it locked in for maximum hydration and therefore plumping skin up and restoring elasticity to soften wrinkles and fine lines. Humectants form a film on the skin that keeps the water that’s drawn from the air and from the skin’s lower layers, from evaporating. Examples of humectants commonly found in skincare include glycerin, honey, panthenol and hyaluronic acid (see below). VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Byoma Hydrating Serum

HYALURONIC ACID: This humectant has become a buzzword ingredient in skincare in recent years. It occurs naturally in the skin and has the ability to draw in and retain water (a single molecule can hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water). As we age, hyaluronic acid levels deplete and skin becomes drier. Therefore, introducing it to your skincare will result in plumped up, hydrated, smooth skin with less signs of dehydration or fine lines. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum

MATRIXYL: Matrixyl is the brand name for a a synthetically produced peptide compound - and Matrixyl 3000 is the most recent version of it. Peptides are made of amino acids and can be considered the ‘building-blocks’ of our skin. They help to promote our cells to produce more collagen, thereby making skin appear firmer and younger. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Depology Matrixyl 3000

NIACINAMIDE: Otherwise known as Vitamin B3, niacinamide is something of a multi-tasker, getting to work on lots of skincare woes. A water-soluble vitamin, it reduces inflammation and redness, visibly improves and diminishes enlarged pores, smooths the skin's surface and evens out skin tone - fading sun spots and hyperpigmentation. Use twice a day for the best results. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Sunday Riley B3 Nice Niacinamide Serum

PEPTIDES: These are fragments of proteins that send signals to the proteins naturally occurring in the skin (such as collagen and elastin) to be reinforced and to produce more. So if you're concerned about loss of firmness and want supple skin with more 'bounce', then try a peptide product. There are countless peptides in skincare... look out for ingredients that end with "peptide" or start with "palmitoyl". VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Day Cream

RETINOL: This Vitamin A derivative is the ultimate anti-aging ingredient, resurfacing the skin by speeding up cell turnover and enhancing collagen production. It tackles lines and wrinkles like no other ingredient and acne, scars and dark spots can also be dramatically improved. Be careful when using retinol as it can result in dryness and irritation... and some sensitive skins can't tolerate it at all. We suggest you start with a product with 0.3% concentration a few times a week and build up to a higher amount. Apply to cleansed skin at night before your moisturiser and ALWAYS use an SPF when using retinol products. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Roc Retinol Correxion Capsules

SPF: When choosing your sun protection factor, be sure to cover all bases with a Broad Spectrum that protects against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays (think A-geing) can penetrate deep into the thickest layer of our skin, causing permanent damage, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and premature ageing. UVB rays (think B-urn) are far shorter and responsible for redness and sunburn and play a key role in the development of skin cancer. The SPF number is an indication of how long the product will protect you for. So wearing SPF30, it will take you 30 times longer to burn than if you were wearing no sunscreen at all. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Bondi Sands Hydra UV Protect SPF50

SQUALANE: Squalane is a saturated oil that's used in skincare because of its well-documented emollient properties. Plus, even the most sensitive of skins can tolerate it. If you suffer with dry and/or mature skin, it can especially benefit you, working to naturally seal in moisture and help in skin problems where the skin barrier is disrupted. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Biossance 100% Squalane Oil

VITAMIN C: This powerful antioxidant (also known as Ascorbic Acid) protects and detoxifies the skin and is an anti-ageing powerhouse. It boosts collagen production (hello plumper, firmer skin!) and improves signs of sun damage and ageing while protecting against further damage. Using Vitamin C in your skincare will brighten the skin to restore its youthful glow and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. Use it daily, under your moisturiser and always wear SPF too. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Lixirskin Vitamin C Paste

VITAMIN F: Otherwise known as linoleic acid, this is an essential fatty acid that strengthens and restores the barrier function of the skin. Find it in essential oils such as chia, argan and rosehip. In skincare, vitamin F nourishes stressed, dry skin, is an anti-inflammatory and can also help to reduce breakouts. VERYMAKEUPMAD Top Pick: Drunk Elephant F Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial

As always, please get in touch for bespoke beauty advice and recommendations. If you fancy introducing any of these ingredients into your skincare routine, we can suggest the right products for you. And don't forget to use our Discount Codes when shopping online.

Love and great skin always,

Vikki & Mala xx

Skincare Ingredients Explained